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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.